Bar Project Series #12: Built Foot Rest in Front of Bar

We went back and forth on what to do in front of the bar wall.  Whether we wanted to purchase brass bar rail or make something out of iron pipes, etc.  In the end, we decided to use some of the extra vinyl flooring we had and just build a 6"x6" step around the bar.  Even without it being painted, it really finishes the look of the bar wall and definitely makes it look like a bar and not just a kitchen.  The height and width of the boxes seems to work out while seated in the bar stools.  They could have been a little deeper, maybe 10-12" but: 1.) We wouldn't have had the clearance all the way around the bar and 2.) The step would have stuck out further than the bar top... which would have looked funny.  The way it is, provides comfort while seated and keeps the person seated in the stool from just dangling their feet or having to rest them on the stool's cross member.

Items Accomplished:
 - Built 6" Tall by 6" Deep wooden step all around the bar front
 - Covered step with vinyl flooring
 - Added Baseboard on top of Foot Rest against wall
 - Installed Stair Edging to Foot Rest to protect Step
 - Installed Quarter Round between Step and Floor
 - Spackled Baseboard

Mocking up step to see how it is going to look/fit

Made some test cuts from some scrap wood :-)

All the 2"x6" planks cut and fit in place

Attached 3" blocks to back plank

Attached back plank with 3" blocks to stub wall

Screwed back plank to studs in stub wall

Attached front plank

Attached top plate (Had Home Store rip these down into 6" pieces, so we
didn't have to.. we are just cutting to length and angle on miter saw).

Laying out flooring and cutting to size/angle

Used liquid nail to help with adhesion. The flooring has some pretty
strong adhesive on it but this is for good measure. The stair edging,
baseboard and quarter round will help hold everything in place too.

One side of the foot rest done (Except the quarter round between the bottom
 of the step and the floor). From baseboard up will be painted Turkish Coffee,
 just like the wall to the left of the pic

Finished building step

Put all the flooring on top of the step and installed the baseboard

Flooring on front of step and began spackling baseboard nail holes

Flooring, stair edging and quarter round installed

Bar Project Series #11: Installed Panel Molding on Bar Wall

Again when we first started this project we had planned on buying the oak bar front kit from Hardwoods Inc. (We may still do this at some point and honestly it would have been a lot less work than having to tape and mud these corners. :-(  Ugh!).  We also considered doing stone, tile or reclaimed distressed wood... not sure.  For now though, we just put up some paneling trim, baseboard and are going to paint it dark brown (Sherwin Williams Turkish Coffee).

We started out by marking where the bar step and baseboard would be then figured out what kind of spacing we wanted around the paneling.  Then transferred the level lines around the bar wall and marked plumb lines for the vertical pieces. 

Two problems with doing it this way: 

First is that the floor isn't level and the gap between the bottom of the panel and the baseboard will not be the same from one side of the bar to the other.  If we made the boxes the same height and made the distance from the baseboard to the bottom of the panel box the same then the gap at the top would be off.  Alternatively we could have made the boxes different sizes to accommodate the change in the level of the floor but visually, you would have noticed the difference in panel size.  Doing it the way we did, you can sight the line of both the bottom and top of the panel boxes and they are straight.

The Second issue is that the taped and mudded corners aren't perfectly plumb, so the gap between the plumb panel and the corners is slightly off, top to bottom.

I'm sure these are nit picky details that absolutely no one will notice but it's frustrating to a DIYer striving to do the best they possibly can on a project.

Starting mocking up where the bar step, baseboard and panel molding will go

Transferred Level Lines around bar wall.
You may also see some touch up I need to do on the corner... haha.

Panel Molding Installed. It looks high but there will be a bar step and
baseboard below it...

Other side of bar. Put in cable pass through for LED Rope Lights



Bar Project Series #10: Built Bridge Above Upper Cabinets

When we originally planned the bar we were going to do some custom shelving as the bar back much like what you would see in a typical bar.  Then after sketching it out, looking at time, materials and thinking about how we planned on using the space... it made more sense to use stock cabinets.  Although we were going to go with stock cabinets, we still wanted a custom feel... Didn't want it to look too much like an apartment kitchen. Haha.  So we decided to create a sort of bridge between the two sets of upper cabinets.  We think it turned out pretty good (well it looks good from 10'... which is good because we have 9' ceilings!).

Items Accomplished:
- Finished patching holes made from running wires on bar back
- Mounted 12" Tall Upper Cabinets to 30" Uppers and Wall
  - Alignment isn't great due to wall being crooked. Will need to sand faces a bit before staining
- Built Bridge above cabinets
- Wired and installed rest of above cabinet and under bridge Xenon puck lights
  - A little concerned that although the lights under the bridge will provide task lighting for the bar sink and counter top, they might cast a glare on the TV going in between the cabinets.  Originally, these 3 lights were going to be on a separate switch but we ended up putting them on the same one as the rest of the puck lights.

Ran a piece of Red Oak 1x2 across both upper cabinets

Had to scarf in a 2' section on right. You can see it up close but from a distance
it's tougher to see. Will need to sand down a bit to hide joint.

In this pic you can see the gap between Oak Veneer on the 12" and 30"
cabinets. These panels come in 12"W x 30" H sheets. Unless you want
to buy and cut a 4'x8' sheet. So we will be putting a piece of trim over the gap.

Crown installed. Again there is a splice on the right side... which you can see
up close.  Still need to do some glue magic to hold the two pieces together.

Those doors r just loosely put in place to get spacing. They're not adjusted.

Crown finished and panel in middle installed

Probably going to add some cove molding on that piece in the back with
the screws.

Puck lights installed and wired



All Lit Up!!! Of course in person it doesn't look like you have 5
spot lights on the ceiling. The naked eye just sees a light glow!

Added a decorative trim piece to back to dress up support piece

Close Up Shot of Trim... Don't look too close :-(

Bar Project Series #9: Some Cabinet / Counter Top Work and Other Stuff

The drywall mud on the bar stub wall and other sheetrock repairs from the electrical work has been taking longer to dry than expected.  Ugh! So we have had to work ahead on other tasks that are not dependent on finishing the drywall work.

So while the mud was drying we:
- Laminated the oak veneer to the outside lower cabinets
- Leveled and mounted the lower cabinets to the back wall
- Put build up blocks on the longer counter top for the back wall
- Attached the laminate end caps on the counter top
- Finally, we cut the holes for the sink and faucet. 

We will probably plumb all that after applying the next coat of mud.

Laminating the oak veneer to the cabinets.  With he first ones I used wood glue.  It worked but I didn't like how the panel moved around and even when done there were spots that didn't quite adhere all the way.  Also, it kept moving around and required a lot of even weight to keep it in place.. and took a while to fully dry.  I found a Locktite laminate adhesive in a spray can at the home improvement store.  WOW! this stuff is NO joke.  You spray it on each side, wait 1-3 minutes, then put the two pieces together and use a rubber roller to ensure proper bonding.  It's completely dry within 15 minutes... but honestly isn't' moving once you put the pieces together.  You have NO ability to adjust once you put the piece down.  So you have to line it up the first time; which isn't too difficult if you are careful.  I was also really concerned about putting the veneer on the uppers using wood glue because they were already on the wall.  Using this method, no slipping, no need to clamp or add any weight.  Just spray, line up, stick in place and roll... DONE!  I was really happy with how this method worked out and am going to use it on the toe kicks as well.

A quick note on the build up blocks.  We didn't use these on the counter top we installed in our media room.  For the most part we didn't need them but do notice that the clearance between the top of the drawer faces and the bullnose is right a the height where you will pinch your fingers in between them.

Upper Cabinet Sprayed with Locktite Laminate Adhesive

Oak panel put in place and rolled on

This is the oak veneer attached and trimmed

We had sprayed some Oil Based Kiltz to the bottom
of the cabinets that will be against the wall. We noticed
some mildew accumulating on them and were concerned
that there was moisture building up behind the wall.

Wasn't having as much success putting blocking behind
the sheetrock pieces we had cut out to pull wires.
We had a roll of that fiberglass drywall seem tape,
so put 2 layers of tape across these small holes, and
put drywall mud over them. Will let you know
how it turns out. 

Clamping and screwing cabinet faces together and attaching cabinets to wall

You can sort of see the gold screws attaching the faces together

All the lower cabinets leveled and secured to wall

Looks kinda straight and level!?!

Front view of cabinets... Please ignore the mess in the cabinets...
 Lots of supplies and tools. UGH!

Adding Build Up Blocks to Counter Top. This is a 10'
Counter Top and we used 2 Kits for this. They each
have 8 blocks in them and cost around $5 each.

Laminate End Cap Blocking Installed and Laminate Ironed on.
It requires a bit of filing... took a few hours. Mostly because we couldn't
find our good files.

You can see the little lip that is below the block. The laminate has to be
filed down to the blocking

The laminate is being filed down to be flush with the counter top

Another shot of the laminate before being filed down

Here is end cap after being filed to shape

Trying to figure out where to set sink and faucet.
Notice the high speed marking tool! We may have borrowed
a White Crayon from our Son!!! Ooops...

Marked and cut out for the sink. The markings on the wall are where the
drain and water lines are below the counter top for reference. Marked this
before installing counter top.

Sink dry-fit and getting faucet locations to drill holes

Sink and faucet just set in place.
Still need to plumb everything.